May 2, 2012

Eating in Cadíz / Comer en Cádiz

Over the past year, I've been to Cadíz a handful of times and so I've written about the city's great food before: the sumptuous tapas at favorite El Faro del Puerto, the thin crispy churros and the traditional tortitas de camarones; but given that there are many other fine establishments that warrant mentioning, I thought I would put the information out there in this (mostly) photographic guide to finding good food in Cadíz.

The first stop should definitely be the newly renovated municipal market. It boasts some of the best fish stands that I have ever seen in terms of freshness and price, and the selection of locally caught fish is unbeatable.

Bluefin tuna is everywhere and so CHEAP. Makes me a bit sad, but looks delicious!

These squid look like they're having a conversation
Cazón, or dogfish, is ironically a kind of catshark. It's used to make the typical, spiced Cazón en adobo.
Cigalas, carabineros, gambas and other delicious shellfish.

Moray eels are colorful and kind of spooky looking.
A little old lady outside the market was selling bags of caracoles, or snails.
Everytime I visit the market I curse myself for not renting an apartment with a kitchen here. Fortunately, it is easy to taste these amazing products all over the city.


I love Taberna Casa Manteca for tapas, drinks or a before lunch aperitivo. The old-fashioned decor, plastered with old photos and bullfighting posters, is authentically dusty and charming and complete with antique scales and butcher-paper plates. The menu consists mostly of embutidos (cured meats), pates, conservas (excellent canned fish and shellfish), and some traditional guisos (stews). The guys who work here are also a lot of fun.

One afternoon they were slicing open fresh sea urchins on the outside patio.

Taberna Casa Manteca
Corralón de los Carros, 66
Tel. 956 213 603

Near Casa Manteca is another favorite, the slightly touristy (in the best sense of the word) but very authentic El Tío de la Tiza, which is located in the plaza of the same name. Most of the tables are outside, but in the winter there are heat lamps and this tiny plaza is as cozy and local as can be. The portions are huge, so it's better to order a couple of media raciones (half-rations - like big tapas) if you're sharing, which cost around 6 euros each. The food is simple and absolutely delicious.

Chocos are fried strips of broad, flat calamari.
Similar to cazón, but a slightly larger type of shark called Marrajo (see below).
The shark (see above).
Langostinos a la plancha (grilled with rock salt).

El Tío de la Tiza
Plaza del Tío de la Tiza

One of my favorite places in Cádiz is one that I've been going to for a before-lunch aperitivo since I was a student in Sevilla, a million years ago, and my program director took me here during Carnival. Taberna la Manzanilla is a traditional, family owned sherry bar that has been open since the turn of the century. The great casks offer a range of different sherries from manzanilla and amontillado to oloroso, and many varieties in between - all with Designation of Origin Jerez-Xérès-Sherry or Manzanilla de Sanlucar de Barrameda. The best thing is to let Pepe, the friendly owner, recommend one for you. Be sure to buy a bottle or two to take back with you to wherever you're going, and also, get a bottle of the incredible and aromatic sherry vinegar that has been aged in amontillado casks. As with other traditional places, your bill is tallied on the bar in chalk.

Not a great photo, but you get the idea.

Taberna La Manzanilla de Cádiz
Feduchy, 19
Tel: 956 285 401

Right across from the stunning cathedral there is a tiny restaurant de toda la vida with a big outdoor terrace that is appropriately called, La Terraza. The menu is extensive and slightly pricier than El Tío de la Tiza, for example, but the food is well-prepared, the fish delicious and the view unbeatable.

Delicious almejas (clams) with garlic, parsley and smoky paprika?
Whole, fried boquerones (sardines).
Chopitos fritos (baby squid).
Piononos de Santa Fé, a typical dessert from Santa Fé, Granada. Very tasty.
Bar Terraza Cádiz
Plaza de la Catedral, 3
Tel: 956 265 391

This was a particularly beautiful glass of tricolor salmorejo in Divino Restaurant and wine bar in the Plaza de la Candelaria made with avocado and beet puree.

DiVino Restaurante
Plaza de la Candelaria

I never go to Cádiz without having lunch at La Marea Restaurant in Playa Victoria (although I think there are other locations). Although it's out of the historic city center (just a long walk, quick taxi or city bus ride away), its location right on this broad, sandy beach is a great place to enjoy the cold cold Cruzcampo beers, incredible rice dishes and other seafood and fish dishes. Get there early on weekends to get a prime seat on the outside terrace.

Arroz el Señorito

Almejas "La Marea" with shrimp.

Pulpo a la Gallega

And finally, although there is much more to eat and do in Cádiz, before you go, make sure to enjoy some of the city's special, thin churros on the outdoor terrace at Cafeteria La Marina in the lovely Plaza de las Flores. I like dipping them in coffee and then a bit of sugar.

So sinful, but delicious!
Plaza de las Flores
Cafeteria La Marina
Plaza Topete, 1 (Plaza de las Flores)
Tel: 956 22 23 97

1 comment:

Flamenco Restaurant Madrid said...

The vegetarian dishes in Madrid include a combination of recent vegetables, spices and sauces. Beans, asparagus and garlic are common ingredients in these dishes. Seafood things like fish, clams and shrimp are very talked-about in Madrid. Some famous seafood dishes are:
Bacalao con Tomate
Sardinas a la Santanderina

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