Photo Excursion to El Ermitaño

This past Saturday, the English edition of El País (sold as a supplement of the International Herald Tribune) published my article on Restaurante El Ermitaño in Benavente, Zamora. Though the full article can be found here, Tasting Autumn in Castilla y León, I though I would share a few more photos from this fabulous dinner, despite the fact that the image quality might not be up to snuff. Enjoy!

 
Amuse-bouche of goat’s cheese cream with Reineta apple .

Cecina rolls with foie gras and quince paste (Canutillos de cecina rellenos de higado de pato con dulce de membrillo).

Aora Mil Cien pale ale, brewed the town of Cacabelos, in nearby Bierzo (Leon).

A free-range egg on a bed of creamy leeks topped with three types of wild mushrooms, thin slices of black truffle and flavorful mounds of shaved marinated tongue (Huevo de corral con setas silvestres, lengua adobada, parmentier de puerros y trufa negra).

This photo was unfortunately taken before the amazing, almost sweet gravy was poured on this venison loin that had been rubbed with wild mushroom salt, cooked over wood smoke, and served with Boletus risotto, Zamorano cheese and the venison’s sweet gravy .

The plate of cured Zamorano cheese that had been grated, cubed and sliced into a variety of formats.

Chef Pedro Mario in his huge kitchen.

The castle at Medina del Campo.

Bridge crossing the Duero River in Toro.

The beautiful, walled town of Urueña.

Restaurante El Ermitaño

Ctra. Benavente-Leon, Km 1,2

49600 Benavente, Zamora 

980 632 213

Wild mushrooms, Castile-Leon and an edible crush

Wild mushrooms burrow in piney forests

There is something about Castile-Leon that makes my heart pound. Though a cultural and neurological center of Spain for centuries, boasting some of the country's finest universities, palaces, museums, restaurants and cathedrals, I'm drawn to this vast area for its great unknown and the sense of wildness that I feel when I'm here.
I want to get to know its darkest forests and rugged, changing landscapes; the long expanses of green that are interrupted by neither town nor fence - with the exception of a crumbled down wall or stone farmhouse here and there - the idea that you can drive for hours and still discover corners, valleys and rivers that you've never seen before.
And mostly, I want to eat, everything I can - from the more classical slow roasted meats and cured hams and sausages, to gamier meats like boar, venison and partridge; and not forgetting the area's wonderful cheeses, produce and legumes. But what I want most of all are its wild mushrooms - those secrets from the forest that can only be found in the autumn and that for me can't be replicated anywhere else but in this magical place.

Fortunately, I'm a lucky soul. Lucky enough to have just gotten back from the third edition of "Soria Gastronómica", the International Mycology Conference that's held in the Castilian city of Soria every two years. This congress, dedicated to all things relating to gastronomic applications for wild mushrooms, is a feast for the senses and a challenge to the waistline. This year's edition, which was held on October 29-30th, hosted presentations by over 20 chefs - mainly from Castile-Leon, but also representing Madrid, Cantabria and a few far flung countries like Sweden, India and Canada - was no different, featuring cooking demonstrations, round-table discussions, tasting opportunities, and hunger-inducing talks on topics such as: The Sweet World of Wild Mushrooms (Elena Lucas Gonzalo, Restaurante la Lobita in Navaleo, Soria), Sensations: Mycology in its Habitat (Pedro Mario and Óscar Pérez, Restaurante El Ermitaño in Benevente, Zamora), Gastromycology in Bierzo (Lydia Álvarz Marqués, Parador de Turismo in Villafranca de Bierzo, Leon), and Avant-garde Techniques Applied to Wild Mushrooms (Óscar García Marina of Baluarte in Soria), to name just a few.

Elena Lucas of La Lobita

Óscar y Pedro Mario Peréz of Restaurante El Ermitaño

And while I am slowly picking away at my full report on this fascinating conference for Foods From Spain, I will leave you with just a few photos of some of the nibbles I was able to try as part of this amazing trip. Most are from Soria's Restaurante Trashumante or the Convento Espacio Grumer in nearby Almazán. More to come.

Black trumpet mushrooms on seared red tuna. It sounded strange but really worked. At Trashumante.

Wonderfully simple and flavorful, at Trashumante

Boletus carpaccio with pistachios at Trashumante. Delicious and the best wild mushroom carpaccio I've ever had.

Duck ham, strawberries, sprouts and wild mushrooms at Convento Espacio Grumer. I love that succulent leaf in the background.